No Little Disturbance in Ephesus
One of my favorite stops on our trip this year was Ephesus. Located in western Turkey, straight across the Aegean Sea from Greece and to the south of ancient Troy, Ephesus was a major port city and one of the richest in Asia. It was also firmly in the grip of the Roman Empire.
In 55 AD, there was a disturbance in Ephesus that was recorded for us, quite vividly, in history. The roots of this disturbance began in 53 AD when a Jewish man, born further east in southern Turkey, arrived in the bustling port city.
While Apollos was in Corinth, Paul passed through the interior regions and came to Ephesus, where he found some disciples.
Acts 19:1
You can imagine him walking down this street, lined on both sides with small shops, that leads directly to the port where people and goods from Greece, Egypt, and Rome arrived daily.
The main street in Ephesus
Paul spends the next few years in Ephesus, debating first in the local synagogue, and then in a local lecture hall.
He entered the synagogue and for three months spoke out boldly, and argued persuasively about the kingdom of God. When some stubbornly refused to believe and spoke evil of the Way before the congregation, he left them, taking the disciples with him, and argued daily in the lecture hall of Tyrannus.
This continued for two years, so that all the residents of Asia, both Jews and Greeks, heard the word of the Lord.
Acts 19:8-10
Both the lecture hall of Tyrannus and the synagogue are lost to us today, but there is some indication that the lecture hall was replaced by the Library of Celsus (pictured left below, and also at the tail end of the street in the first picture) when it was built in the 110s AD. We found a Menorah (pictured right) carved into the stone steps of the Library of Celsus, a reminder of just how diverse, yet recognizable, this magnificent city was two thousand years ago.
The Library of Celsus at night A menorah carved into the steps of the Library of Celsus
After a few years in Ephesus, Paul decides to hit the road again and keep making his way toward Rome:
Now after these things had been accomplished, Paul resolved in the Spirit to go through Macedonia and Achaia, and then to go on to Jerusalem. He said, “After I have gone there, I must also see Rome.” So he sent two of his helpers, Timothy and Erastus, to Macedonia, while he himself stayed for some time longer in Asia.
Acts 19:21-22
Despite Roman era Jews and early Christians (who, like Paul, were mostly Jewish at the time) featuring in the story so far, Ephesus was not a Christian town. Far from it. In fact, the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, had been funded by the Ephesians themselves after an arsenist burned down an earlier version in 356 BC.
I have set eyes on the wall of lofty Babylon on which is a road for chariots, and the statue of Zeus by the Alpheus, and the hanging gardens, and the colossus of the Sun, and the huge labour of the high pyramids, and the vast tomb of Mausolus; but when I saw the house of Artemis that mounted to the clouds, those other marvels lost their brilliancy, and I said, "Lo, apart from Olympus, the Sun never looked on aught so grand".
Antipater, Greek Anthology IX.58
The Temple was a huge deal. The site of worship for people going back centuries, it was also an economic engine for the city. Priests, prostitutes, artisans, and farmers would all do regular business at and be closely interlinked with the temple's success.
Out of the wide variety of citizens in Ephesus, there was one group that refused to enter into the temple's orbit. Jews, believing that their God was the one true God, and the only one deserving worship, were the exception to the rule. But given that they were a minority, with a religion so ancient as to deserve some level of mystical respect, the locals gave them a pass.
So it must have been a shock when, in just a few years, a small community of Ephesians, not clearly defined by one race or religion (indeed, they would later be deemed "athiests" by the Roman authorities), stopped engaging with the temple. The story picks back up around 55 AD:
About that time no little disturbance broke out concerning the Way. A man named Demetrius, a silversmith who made silver shrines of Artemis, brought no little business to the artisans. These he gathered together, with the workers of the same trade, and said, “Men, you know that we get our wealth from this business. You also see and hear that not only in Ephesus but in almost the whole of Asia this Paul has persuaded and drawn away a considerable number of people by saying that gods made with hands are not gods. And there is danger not only that this trade of ours may come into disrepute but also that the temple of the great goddess Artemis will be scorned, and she will be deprived of her majesty that brought all Asia and the world to worship her.”
When they heard this, they were enraged and shouted, “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!” The city was filled with the confusion; and people rushed together to the theater, dragging with them Gaius and Aristarchus, Macedonians who were Paul's travel companions.
Acts 19:23-29
The Ephesian theater, only a short walk past the Library of Celsus, is pictured left below. It is easy to imagine the crowd, spurred on by wealthy artisans fearing their livelihoods, rushing in from the bustling city outside to bring these two troublemakers to justice.
On the right is a statue of Artemis from the Ephesus museum. The temple itself would have contained a similar one carved from wood, painted, and adorned with jewelry. This model and numerous other variations - big and small, for official and personal use - were crafted with great skill by artisans like Demetrius and his colleagues.
The amphitheater in Ephesus A statue of Artemis from the Ephesus museum
The story continues with a chaotic scene in the amphitheater:
Meanwhile, some were shouting one thing, some another; for the assembly was in confusion, and most of them did not know why they had come together. Some of the crowd gave instructions to Alexander, whom the Jews had pushed forward. And Alexander motioned for silence and tried to make a defense before the people. But when they recognized that he was a Jew, for about two hours all of them shouted in unison, “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!” But when the town clerk had quieted the crowd, he said, “Citizens of Ephesus, who is there that does not know that the city of the Ephesians is the temple keeper of the great Artemis and of the statue that fell from heaven? Since these things cannot be denied, you ought to be quiet and do nothing rash. You have brought these men here who are neither temple robbers nor blasphemers of our goddess. If therefore Demetrius and the artisans with him have a complaint against anyone, the courts are open, and there are proconsuls; let them bring charges there against one another. If there is anything further you want to know, it must be settled in the regular assembly. For we are in danger of being charged with rioting today, since there is no cause that we can give to justify this commotion.” When he had said this, he dismissed the assembly.
Acts 19:32-41
And that's where the disturbance in Ephesus ends. The crowd, calmed both by the town clerk and the even greater threat of retributive violence from the Roman authorities, disperses and goes back to their business.
But that's not the end for the Christians in Ephesus. Carved into stones all over the city is the ancient ἸΧΘΥΣ symbol. A combination of Greek letters, it stands for Iesous (Jesus), Khristos (Anointed), Theou (God), Uios (Son), and Soter (Savior). The letters, when merged into one, could be used discreetly by Christians, no doubt wary of being dragged back into the theater, to identify each other and their meeting places.
Here is one such carving in a stone right in front of the amphitheater:
IXOYE in front of the amphitheater in Ephesus